Deer Creek Reroute Update

(on Smokey's Blue Ridge Trail section of the Sunshine Coast Trail)

Once upon a time before we knew what was what we designed the Sunshine Coast Trail in such a way that it came straight out of the Smith Range down through Suicide Pass and headed southward into the lowlands toward the bottom end of Lois Lake where we had to cross Eagle River. This was and still is some of the best growing land for trees on the coast. Some mossy century-old wood skid roads that had been used to take the first crop out of these foothills were ideal for our purposes because they ran in the direction we needed to go.

 

They were a trailbuilder's delight because once you had found them, and bucked and cleared out all the tangle of woody debris and dead-fall that obscured them, you had a lovely trail on which you could amble along.

But we caught on eventually, realizing we couldn't keep the whole of the SCT where we had located it initially some 20 years ago...

.... because the licensee had to make a living and liked the look of the stands of timber we were traversing with the trail.

 

This pressure increased. With much of the accessible old growth at the ends of the distant valleys now logged, the industry's eyes returned to the front country where second growth had aged sufficiently and began to look very attractive.

 

And so in the last half dozen years, we've had to negotiate reroutes for some sections of the trail. Naturally, it's meant more work, time and expense, but in the process we have gained final resting places for segments of the SCT, gained certainty for this increasingly popular recreation and tourism resource. Some of these reroutes have turned out very nicely indeed. Some sections have been relocated out onto rocky outcroppings that have provided natural vistas, 

and opportunities to try our hand at a variety of ways of making the trail safe and enjoyable, as here at the Stairway to Heaven in cutblock ST-245.

That's not to say we want to rebuild 180 km of the Sunshine Coast Trail. But we can see that sometimes it can be an agreeable resolution. It is work that absorbs significant amounts of time and resources.

Some reroutes, as in the case of the Deer Creek Reroute, a kilometre farther uphill from the Stairway, have benefited from the establishment of stand-level Wildlife Tree Retention Areas (WTRAs), or by being placed in riparian zones, such as the headwaters of this pretty little creek that now protects and enhances the integrity and viability of this part of the Sunshine Coast Trail.

We want certainty, and with that the ability to do long-range planning.

What has enabled PR PAWS to carry on concurrently with its hut-building program plus rebuilding sections of the 180 km-long SCT a second time has been the inspiring support we have received from dozens of generous volunteers in this community. We have been able to draw on the talented pool of hut- and trail-builders who have ensured the continued existence and success of the Sunshine Coast Trail. We are exceedingly thankful for their contributions. We are also thankful for donations from in and out of town.

Not only has this recreation/tourism facility given Powell River's residents and visitors opportunities to reach extraordinarily beautiful places via a world-class hiking trail (like Tin Hat above after a blizzard), but it has also aided the biodiversity and wildlife of this region. Seven huts now grace the length of the trail and a few more will be built this year and next.

The new Deer Creek Reroute (ST-232) winds along through a picturesque ravine, crossing and recrossing the lively stream four times by means of small bridges.  

The creek runs crystal clear.

To welcome hikers we have built a bench from native materials found on site.

Here Lyn is driving in the last spike of the skookum three-seater














that overlooks the falls.
 

Then he studies the fish-stream above the new bench.

On another trailday outing Jim is pounding spikes into the slabs that ensure we keep honoring one of our early and still quoted mottoes for the Sunshine Coast Trail - "99% Mud Free". It's more like 99.99%, really.

Of course we have also attached markers and signage so that users can feel confident they are on the right trail and are traveling in the right direction.












Here are two slabs ripped from a single downed cedar that had fallen years ago, but did not rot because much of it came to rest in the air. One continuous 18-foot cut provides the stringers for the uppermost bridge of the reroute.

Dipper gives them the stamp of approval.

First, Terry attaches the turfer (a type of come-along) to a tree on one side of the drainage and the stringers on the other. Then, while Ron keeps the cable clear and free, he starts ratcheting home the stringers with Don and Dipper guiding them.








One more mighty heave and both slabs are lined up almost side by side.

A little more ratcheting and lifting into place...

 ...and Terry is happier than a hot dog - and more playful than a puppy. Catch me if you can.










Meanwhile, Ron cuts two more sills to keep the wee bridge high and dry while Don steadies it safely.

The little bridge looks good and one last offending obstruction is being pummeled into submission.


 The crossing meets with Double Ron's approval.
























On yet another trailday outing Don and Terry seek shelter from the steady rain after having grubbed for a couple of hours. They will enjoy a somewhat dry lunch, before getting back to grubbing the new trail.

It took us 200 man hours during January and February to build the reroute, including the four little bridges, and the bench. A dozen different volunteers were involved in doing the work. We'll likely be back to build a picnic table in the coming weeks, but now we have to focus on the 19th annual Marathon Shuffle, which will take place on Sunday, April 29th. That popular event starts at Km 21 of the SCT at Malaspina Road and ends up at the Shingle Mill at Km 50, and so we have to make sure that this stretch of the Sunshine Coast Trail is spic and span. We are hoping to attract many hikers and runners to join the numerous locals. The Half Shuffle is getting to be quite popular as well and can be completed in a few leisurely hours.

Are you in?
Are you in shape?
It's a good time to start now.

Here three happy hikers approaching the finish line last year. Yeah, they are ready for some refreshments.

To get to the Stairway to Heaven and the Deer Creek reroutes of the Sunshine Coast Trail drive to Lang Bay store south of Powell River on Highway 101, and turn uphill on Dixon Road which is paved for the first mile. Just after the pavement ends near the last house (Last Chance Store) Dixon Road will rise and pass the gravel pits that are on either side. A hundred metres beyond the crest of Dixon Road pull over tight on the right for adequate parking space along the busy road.

A wooden sign indicates SCT North on the upper (left) side of the road, and a couple of red diamond markers indicate where you have to enter the trailhead. About a 20 minute hike will take you through an older reroute (ST-245) to a crossing of another logging road, Goat Main at Mile 4.

From there it's a short climb up to the Stairway to Heaven and on from there another 20 minutes to the start of the reroute. All in all it could take about an hour from Dixon Road to the end of Deer Creek reroute where it emerges onto Old Hastings Road. For now this is your turn around point because logging and road building (ST-235) is still carrying on above here well into April.

Western Forest Products can work out passage with trekkers (long distance through-hikers) as long as they are aware you wish to pass through on a given day. Contact WFP (604-485-3100) to make these safety arrangements.

Otherwise, for daytrips do turn around here at Old Hastings Road and rest a bit at the creek, look around, have a snack, keep hydrated and then head back downhill to the car. We hope you enjoyed your hike.

Terry and Don came back this week and started crafting the boards and sleepers for the new picnic table they are building. Another trailday and we'll be eating smokies by the side of Deer Creek.

Well here's another Trailday outing with Andy and Terry. We've fastened together the logs with iron rebar and ripped the cedar planks. They are making sure the planks sit nice and snug on the sleepers. 

Did somebody say time for lunch?

One sure gets hungry out here.












There were a fair number of danger trees in the vicinity of the picnic table that is obscured here by the split and stacked wood.

 

Terry and Andy assume a pose that is century-old. Like the woodworkers of old they show their value-added product. Good job, men.

Elk Lake Mar 5 2012.

Elk Lake trail report: Was at Elk lake yesterday. Mix of weather, sometimes sunny and clear, snowing at other times.

About 2' of snow at Granite, 6' at Elk and 10+ on top of the Smith range... I wouldn't recommend taking the outside loop (East); marking is virtually non existant, 10'+ deep cross ditches and alders down everywhere.

Even the inside loop (west) has has alder and cross ditch problems, but not nearly as bad (although it is well marked). Lots of water issues though with big ruts down the middle of most of the quad road.

Overall a very tough go, so make sure you know what you're doing.

Thanks to PRPAWS & the ATV Club for all their hard work.

Tin Hat Feb 18/19

Tin Hat trail report: Went up to Tin Hat on Sat Feb 18 via the South section of SCT trail. Found that the trail was closed where it crosses the road at the back of Lewis lake, so we drove through the cut blocks and started near Cranberry & Sofia ponds. The first section of trail was bad near the block, but it got better soon after (less windfalls).

Unfortunately it rained/sloppy snowed on us the first 1.5 hours and we were soaked even in the trees. The trail was very rough and in many parts and not really a trail at all lots of the time (but that just added to the adventure), but thankfully it was recently flagged and was easy to follow, until we got to closer to the top and deeper snow.

From there it became a game of find the next ribbon, but we managed. We didn't put our snow shoes on until about 1/2 way up. Near the top the ribbons were buried lots of the time and the last section to the cabin was extremely steep and almost impassable. In total it took us 4.5 hours up and I wouldn't recommend it, until the trail is worked on more...

5-7' of snow at the cabin and we got a nice view a few times. There was 1/4 bag of pellets left at the cabin, one bottle of fire starter and we donated some candles *as there is no lantern) and a few more dishes, but there still aren't much so bring pots/pans. Also no sink or anything to wash dishes in easily. I'm sure someone will bring more supplies when spring comes.

Next day We took the road down and it was much better. Well marked and snow to about half way down where some people had driven to. Took us 1.5 hours to walk to the bottom of the road where it meets the cut block. A very hard, but rewarding journey overall. Thanks for the cabin and all the hard work on the trails.

Four Dutchmen trek a wintry Sunshine Coast Trail

A few weeks ago we were contacted by Cornelis Douma. He was in Alberta, awaiting the arrival of his long-time chums coming from Holland where they grew up.

 

He had been researching "long distance hiking trails" in Canada and homed in on the West Coast Trail and the Sunshine Coast Trail. The SCT won out because it didn't require making reservations, nor did it cost anything to use it. Special bonus there were free huts along the route. And while the easier lowlands sections were snow-free, he and his friends wanted to do a seven day trek through the rugged snowbound mountains in the mid-section of the Sunshine Coast Trail.

Early February they flew into Vancouver and stayed at the Cambie Hostel. They had rented a car to make the trip up the Sunshine Coast to Powell River. Its trunk barely accommodated the bulky backpacks and gear, but it worked.

Ward is putting the last of their belongings into the car. Next onto two mini-cruises heading north across the fjords on two ferries.

At Earl's Cove the visitor information map provided some ideas what they were heading toward.



What about bears?










When they arrived in Powell River Friday night, they did some shopping and pitched their tents in the downtown oceanfront campsite and park at Willingdon Beach.

Saturday morning the caretaker dropped them off at the bridge across Powell River.

Anton, Jens, Cornelis and Ward are rearing to go. 80 klicks to cover.

They took rests along the way because those packs were loaded...

... and finally arrived at Haywire Bay regional park where they were warmly welcomed by the caretakers. They even insisted on feeding them dinner.

Sunday morning they set out, encountering an area of massive blow-down. They were thankful the trail crew had come through here and cut a way through with the chainsaws.

On the edge of Lost Lake they felt they knew where they where they were heading. The multitudes of red metal markers were always visible and reassuring that they were on the right track.

They passed  around the top end of  Inland Lake, which is also wheelchair accessible.

 

 They had a snack time at the beach. Looking down the lake they could see Mount Mahony with its shoulder ...

 

which they had to climb to get to Confederation Lake Hut.


They ascended Confederation trail through old growth so big their jaws dropped.

 Some of the ancient trees had fallen across the trail in the past and a passage was cut through the big trunks.




At last they found their first snow ...

... and the edge of  frozen Confederation Lake.












The snow-capped peaks of the Rainbow Range sparkled in the distance. The shadows were growing longer and the trekkers had to make haste to reach the hut at the far end of the lake.

They tramped on and found an ancient cedar that had been hollowed by a fire probably caused by lightning.

The hut was clean and the trekkers appreciated having a roof over their head.










Monday proved to be a big day, 11 hours of hiking, to get across to Tin Hat Mountain where the next hut was awaiting them. That was a tough grind. A new hut halfway in between, down at Powell Lake will indeed be a welcome addition to the chain of huts.

They descended 2000 feet.

down to the former Fiddlehead Farm in Giovanni Valley and had a break in the old orchard. Tin Hat is lurking above in the distance.













They saddled up again, and began the long 4000 foot climb...

A few bridges made crossing of creeks a breeze, but the climb was epic.

Along the way they met Eagle and Terry who had been out doing trail work with Richie and Bob, in anticipation of the trekkers coming through. Here Jens (left) and Cornelis (right) were reassured the route was cleared and easy to follow, albeit a substantial climb to Tin Hat Hut.

They powered on and reached the hut by moonlight. Because the hut is insulated and it had been a sunny day it was cosy inside.

They slept like knights of the cherished snow and woke in the morning to the sun spilling in through the window of the cabin.

Quickly they rose and caught the moment of the sun lifting free above the Knuckleheads Range

Cornelis and Ward enjoy some quiet moments as they contemplate the possibilities of breakfast and the day's trek ahead.

Nature calling does present a bit of a problem. Luckily a snow shovel allows for digging free the door to the pit toilet.

Returning to the hut, it is now time to plan how to get from Tin Hat hut to the next shelter in the Smith Range.

One final picture on Tin Hat with their route laid out ahead of them through the wooded corridor that threads through the cut-blocks in the distance. Elk Lake or bust.

Ah, a power bar at the base of Tin Hat. They made good progress coming down the mountain, and are almost out of the snow again. 

Within another half hour they have reached the treed trail corridor they looked at from above. It is an historic railroad grade, PR PAWS cleaned out and converted into a four kilometre-long section of the Sunshine Coast Trail.

They are in good spirits and since it is still early in the day, they cool their heels for a while.

Eventually they pass through patches of old growth cedar and Douglas fir, and master the snowy north slope that rises to Elk Lake. 

Here they reach another hut and make a fire in the outdoor pit to help dry out their wet gear. Then as evening falls they scramble up into the sleeping loft and prepare for the night.

Wednesday morning they wake and are still in great humour. They put their snowshoes to good use as they power on to Coyote Lake. Which way to go?

Thattaway for sure.

They see the gathering clouds, harbingers of a warm front sweeping in from the Pacific, but aren't really aware of what lies in store for them.

Behind them and below the Horseshoe Valley spreads out with its large lakes, and the famous Powell Forest Canoe Route. But that's another journey...

Soon they will not take any more pictures because the temperatures have risen quickly and the rains will have begun.

Rain on top of snow is trouble, and you must guard to stay dry and stave off hypothermia. But that's not on their minds just yet. What a great day. Snowshoe till you drop.

After an arduous slog they make it as far as Coyote Lake campsite before nightfall. Here they pitched their tents in the deep snow. That was the challenge they had been looking for, snowshoeing through a winter wilderness.

Happy lads, aren't they. The tarp they carried does come in very handy now. The men spend a night in the open. A roof would have been useful here.

Dreams of a sugar plum hut on Walt Hill dance through their heads.........







Though they mastered Walt Hill hauling up and over its rugged hogback, they never reached the hut. It never materialized. They had misread the guidebook and didn't realize until late in the afternoon that this hut was a future project, scheduled for construction after this year's snows are gone.

No problem. They knew they couldn't stay up on the mountain in the driving rain, and no shelter, no means to get warm. They knew they had to come out a day early. They knew they had to haul butt. As quickly as conditions allowed they descended the steep southern edge of Walt Hill and dropped down through Suicide Pass.

Now free of snow and no longer in need of their lumbering snow shoes they wheeled on down the old railroad grade until they reached Conchie Road. From there, their headlights guided them out to Duck Lake road at its junction with Granite Lake road. They called their PR PAWS support team, and though a day early, they were lucky arrangements could be made for Matt who was home to come and pick them up. They stayed put where they were and Matt found them and had them out of the bush in half an hour. 

He dropped them off at the motel, where they were alert enough to entertain visitors for a while. Everyone was safe and sound. What an adventure. Ah to get dried out again, and warm. Such a luxury.

They were thrilled to have triumphed over some of the most trying and dangerous conditions a person can encounter just about anywhere. Rain and snow can quickly lead to lethal exposure. This type of weather can not be taken lightly. Being out in it you realize you have to respect what it can throw at you. They felt the huts made it possible for them to complete their challenge. Without them such an adventure would not have been possible.

Friday they met Matt and Eagle for lunch in town. How about that? Delicious French soup, and scrumptious sandwiches.

Ward, Jens, Eagle and Matt chow down.

 Many thanks to Matt, the hero of the day.

Anton, Jens, Cornelis and Ward showed their resilience, and regaled us with details of their adventure. They are the first known hikers to trek the Sunshine Coast Trail in winter conditions, trekking for six days, and covering roughly the middle half of the trail. They decided to stay another day and take in the culinary and cultural delights that Powell River has to offer. They will be back, they said, to take in the remaining sections of the Sunshine Coast Trail, and the Canoe Route.
Then we told them about mountain-biking, kayaking, mountaineering, horseback-riding, etc, etc, and the first brewery opening up in Powell River...