A few weeks ago we were contacted by Cornelis Douma. He was in Alberta,
awaiting the arrival of his long-time chums coming from Holland where
they grew up.
He had been researching "long distance hiking trails" in
Canada and homed in on the West Coast Trail and the Sunshine
Coast Trail. The SCT won out because it didn't require making
reservations, nor did it cost anything to use it. Special bonus there
were free huts along the route. And while the easier lowlands
sections were snow-free, he and his friends wanted to do a seven day trek through the
rugged snowbound mountains in the mid-section of the Sunshine Coast Trail.
Early February they flew into Vancouver and stayed at the Cambie Hostel. They had rented a car to make the trip up the Sunshine Coast to Powell River. Its trunk barely accommodated the bulky backpacks and gear, but it worked.
Ward is putting the last of their belongings into the car. Next onto two mini-cruises heading north across the fjords on two ferries.
At Earl's Cove the visitor information map provided some ideas what they were heading toward.
What about bears?
When they arrived in Powell River Friday night, they did some shopping and pitched
their tents in the downtown oceanfront campsite and park at Willingdon
Beach.
Saturday morning the caretaker dropped them off at the bridge across Powell River.
Anton, Jens, Cornelis and Ward are rearing to go. 80 klicks to cover.
They took rests along the way because those packs were loaded...
... and finally arrived at Haywire Bay regional park where they were warmly welcomed by the caretakers. They even insisted on feeding them dinner.
Sunday morning they set out, encountering an area of massive blow-down. They were thankful the trail crew had come through here and cut a way through with the chainsaws.
On the edge of Lost Lake they felt they knew where they where they were heading. The multitudes of red metal markers were always visible and reassuring that they were on the right track.
They passed around the top end of
Inland Lake, which is also wheelchair accessible.
They had a snack time at the beach. Looking down the lake they could see Mount Mahony with its shoulder ...
which they had to climb to get to Confederation Lake Hut.
They ascended Confederation trail through old growth so big their jaws dropped.
Some of the ancient trees had fallen across the trail in the past and a passage was cut through the big trunks.
At last they found their first snow ...
... and the edge of frozen Confederation Lake.
The snow-capped peaks of the Rainbow Range sparkled in the distance. The shadows were growing longer and the trekkers had to make haste to reach the hut at the far end of the lake.
They tramped on and found an ancient cedar that had been hollowed by a fire probably caused by lightning.
The hut
was clean and the trekkers appreciated having a roof over their head.
Monday
proved to be a big day, 11 hours of hiking, to get across to Tin Hat Mountain where the next hut was awaiting them. That was a tough grind. A new hut halfway in between, down at Powell Lake will indeed be a welcome addition to the chain of huts.
They descended 2000 feet.
down
to the former Fiddlehead Farm in Giovanni Valley and had a break in the old orchard. Tin Hat is lurking above in the distance.
They saddled up again, and began the long 4000 foot climb...
A few bridges made crossing of creeks a breeze, but the climb was epic.
Along the way they met Eagle and Terry who had been out doing trail work with Richie and Bob, in anticipation of the trekkers coming through. Here Jens (left) and Cornelis (right) were reassured the route was cleared and easy to follow, albeit a substantial climb to Tin Hat Hut.
They powered on and reached the hut by moonlight. Because the hut is insulated and it had been a sunny day it was cosy inside.
They slept like knights of the cherished snow and woke in the morning to the sun spilling in through the window of the cabin.
Quickly they rose and caught the moment of the sun lifting free above the Knuckleheads Range
Cornelis and Ward enjoy some quiet moments as they contemplate the possibilities of breakfast and the day's trek ahead.
Nature calling does present a bit of a problem. Luckily a snow shovel allows for digging free the door to the pit toilet.
Returning to the hut, it is now time to plan how to get from Tin Hat hut to the next shelter in the Smith Range.
One final picture on Tin Hat with their route laid out ahead of them through the wooded corridor that threads through the cut-blocks in the distance. Elk Lake or bust.
Ah, a power bar at the base of Tin Hat. They made good progress coming down the mountain, and are almost out of the snow again.
Within another half hour they have reached the treed trail corridor they looked at from above. It is an historic railroad grade, PR PAWS cleaned out and converted into a four kilometre-long section of the Sunshine Coast Trail.
They are in good spirits and since it is still early in the day, they cool their heels for a while.
Eventually they pass through patches of old growth cedar and Douglas fir, and master the snowy north slope that rises to Elk Lake.
Here they reach another hut and make a fire in the outdoor pit to help dry out their wet gear. Then as evening falls they scramble up into the sleeping loft and prepare for the night.
Wednesday morning they wake and are still in great humour. They put their snowshoes to good use as they power on to
Coyote Lake. Which way to go?
Thattaway for sure.
They see the gathering clouds, harbingers of a warm front sweeping in from the Pacific, but aren't really aware of what lies in store for them.
Behind them and below the Horseshoe Valley spreads out with its large lakes, and the famous Powell Forest Canoe Route. But that's another journey...
Soon they will not take any more pictures because the temperatures have risen quickly and the rains will have begun.
Rain on top of snow is trouble, and you must guard to stay dry and stave off hypothermia. But that's not on their minds just yet. What a great day. Snowshoe till you drop.
After an arduous slog they make it as far as Coyote Lake campsite before nightfall. Here they pitched their tents in the deep snow. That was
the challenge they had been looking for, snowshoeing through a winter
wilderness.
Happy lads, aren't they. The tarp they carried does come in very handy now. The men spend a night in the open. A roof would have been useful here.
Dreams of a sugar plum hut on Walt Hill dance through their heads.........
Though they mastered Walt Hill hauling up and over its rugged hogback, they never reached the hut. It never materialized. They had misread the guidebook and didn't realize until late in the afternoon that this hut was a future project, scheduled for construction after this year's snows are gone.
No problem. They knew they couldn't stay up on the mountain in the driving rain, and no shelter, no means to get warm. They knew they had to come out a day early. They knew they had to haul butt. As quickly as conditions allowed they descended the steep southern edge of Walt Hill and dropped down through Suicide Pass.
Now free of snow and no longer in need of their lumbering snow shoes they wheeled on down the old railroad grade until they reached Conchie Road. From there, their headlights guided them out to Duck Lake road at its junction with Granite Lake road. They called their PR PAWS support team, and though a day early, they were lucky arrangements could be made for Matt who was home to come and pick them up. They stayed put where they were and Matt found them and had them out of the bush in half an hour.
He dropped them off at the motel, where they were alert enough to
entertain visitors for a while. Everyone was safe and sound. What an
adventure. Ah to get dried out again, and warm. Such a luxury.
They were thrilled to have triumphed over some of the most
trying and dangerous conditions a person can encounter just about anywhere. Rain
and snow can quickly lead to lethal exposure. This type of weather can not be
taken lightly. Being out in it you realize you have to respect what it
can throw at you. They felt the huts made it possible for them to
complete their challenge. Without them such an adventure would not have
been possible.
Friday they met Matt and Eagle for lunch in town. How about that? Delicious French soup, and scrumptious sandwiches.
Ward, Jens, Eagle and Matt chow down.
Many
thanks to Matt, the hero of the day.
Anton, Jens, Cornelis and Ward showed their
resilience, and regaled us with details of their adventure. They are the
first known hikers to trek the Sunshine Coast Trail in winter
conditions, trekking for six days, and covering roughly the middle half
of the
trail. They decided to stay another day and take in the culinary and cultural delights that Powell River has to offer. They will be back, they said, to take in the remaining sections of the Sunshine Coast Trail, and the Canoe Route.
Then we told them about mountain-biking, kayaking, mountaineering, horseback-riding, etc, etc, and the first brewery opening up in Powell River...
Tin Hat trail report: Went up to Tin Hat on Sat Feb 18 via the South section of SCT trail. Found that the trail was closed where it crosses the road at the back of Lewis lake, so we drove through the cut blocks and started near Cranberry & Sofia ponds. The first section of trail was bad near the block, but it got better soon after (less windfalls). 
Unfortunately it rained/sloppy snowed on us the first 1.5 hours and we were soaked even in the trees. The trail was very rough and in many parts and not really a trail at all lots of the time (but that just added to the adventure), but thankfully it was recently flagged and was easy to follow, until we got to closer to the top and deeper snow. 
From there it became a game of find the next ribbon, but we managed. We didn't put our snow shoes on until about 1/2 way up. Near the top the ribbons were buried lots of the time and the last section to the cabin was extremely steep and almost impassable. In total it took us 4.5 hours up and I wouldn't recommend it, until the trail is worked on more... 
snow at the cabin and we got a nice view a few times. There was 1/4 bag of pellets left at the cabin, one bottle of fire starter and we donated some candles *as there is no lantern) and a few more dishes, but there still aren't much so bring pots/pans. Also no sink or anything to wash dishes in easily. I'm sure someone will bring more supplies when spring comes.
snow at the cabin and we got a nice view a few times. There was 1/4 bag of pellets left at the cabin, one bottle of fire starter and we donated some candles *as there is no lantern) and a few more dishes, but there still aren't much so bring pots/pans. Also no sink or anything to wash dishes in easily. I'm sure someone will bring more supplies when spring comes.
Posts
